Sunday, July 24, 2011

Getting’ in the “Groove”

It’s amazing how quickly you fall into a routine – even when you are thousands of miles from the comforts of home.

I’ll admit that I have fallen into my own groove here in Pursat, enjoying the Cambodian lifestyle.

I wake up at 7am – without an alarm clock I might add. (Anyone who knows me can attest to how miraculous this truly is.) As we get ready, you hear the beat of khmer music and kids playing in the yard. Sometimes you can hear faint chants of monks echoing through the streets. Jamie and I walk about a half a kilometer to our favorite breakfast place, where the family knows exactly what meals to prepare us. Mine is “Koi-tee-oo, Bon Lai”, noodle soup with vegetables. Jamie orders three fried eggs. We both get “CafĂ© tuk-dak-cou tuk-kaa”, coffee with ice and condensed milk.

We pound down our breakfast and cringe as 18 wheeler trucks rumble down highway 5, their drivers leaning on the horns at every intersection. Students pedal on their bicycles and rush off to school, monks walk bare foot, house to house on their daily commute to gather food; men buzz by on motos catching a surprised wide-eyed stare at the “Barrangs” (white people) as they head off to work, and of course, Ratana, prepares his daily cow or two, hogtied to a “Cambodian rotisserie” at his popular restaurant across the way.

Walking back to Sustainable Cambodia’s office, we hear children’s uproar “hello’s”, running and giggling behind us. I arrive at SC and greet all the staff I run into on the way to my office. I plunk onto my wooden chair and turn the fan on – relieved after the hot, sweaty walk. I pull out the bug spray and soak my legs and ankles. I had found out the hard way that mosquitoes like to find solace under our dark desks during the heat of the day, snacking on our flesh whilst we are hard at work.

I open my laptop and ants scurry across my keyboard. I sigh, sweep them off with my fingers, squishing and smearing most of them on the way.

I look forward to all my emails, especially the ones from my family and friends; it’s always such a great way to start my day.

In Cambodia, all offices shut down from noon till 2pm because it’s usually the hottest part of the day. Our cook will make us lunch for 5,000 Riel – equivalent to about $1.25, that usually consists of rice and a meat surprise. We enjoy the next hour napping and relaxing in our rooms and hammocks while the sun scorches the red earth during the hottest part of the day.

We go back to work at 2 until 6pm and then we head home, where we usually treat ourselves to “tukaluks” – fruit shakes for 50 cents from Na right across the street.

By 7pm, dinnertime, we are drained; our table conversations are thinner and the words come out in a more lethargic tone. I find bugs jumping onto my rice and I eat around them, flicking the big ones across the table at one of the other 6 internationals. Crickets are everywhere and they jump around your feet. Sometimes if we are REAL lucky, they’ll hit our face on their clumsy mid air flight. It used to make me jump up and scream bloody murder (Jamie nods in approval). Now, I am indifferent – I simply grab the cricket and smack it on the ground in hopes it wont get back up. We can even watch the toads hop around our table, gulping down crickets before they can make a daring escape.

By 8:30pm, we are back in our rooms, reading or laying in bed with the fan on full blast. This is the best part of the day. The whole city shuts down by 9pm and the silence can be so beautiful. You usually hear geckos shouting out into the night: “GECK KO, GECK KO”. Now that it’s rainy season, we can hear the booming thunder and lightning that electrifies the sky.

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I'm Home.

What will I remember from a trip like this? What experience will make the biggest impact? What stories will I be telling my friends and family when I get home? What things will I miss the most once it’s gone?

I really can’t think of anything better than feeling a sense of “belonging” from people that embrace you in their culture. For me, the social aspect of any trip always seems to be the best part of the trip – they are always the memories I look back fondly on. Living in Pursat has been absolutely incredible – but what make this experience perfect is the people.

From laughing over organic wine and chicken stomach with the guards at night to road trips out to rural districts, from dining out with the SC staff to playing cards with the students – I am blessed to meet so many kind, smart, generous, and passionate people. Each person has stories to tell, we just have to find the time and opportunity to stop and listen.

It’s easy to get caught up in day-to-day work; I’m in the office Monday through Friday, sometimes 10 hours a day. What is remarkable is that even in the office where I am surrounded by all of SC staff, I get so involved in my own little world on my laptop. It’s only when I walk outside and get stopped by a student eager to practice their English, or a staff member stopping by the volunteer office to pop in to say hello that I am reminded of where I am.

I’m in Cambodia. I'm working WITH ambitious, smart, wonderful Cambodian people. I'm home.

Sure, there are cultural and language barriers that can be a struggle, but I’ve been lucky enough to feel as though I am home – even if I have weird freckles or pale skin.

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Friday, June 3, 2011

Fragments; Swiss Cheese

In my history, I’ve stumbled through Dachau, proudly marched at Vimy, tiptoed in Jericho, and buckled at Tuol Sleng. At each, many people had taken their final breath, seen their last snapshot; dying at the hands of ruthless oppressors, in glorious battle, for the protection of their homes and families, or shackled to the floor.

Death is a private thing. It is a time where someone is at their most vulnerable and is perhaps the only true first-time experience. You can’t touch it, you can’t deny it, and you can’t understand it. It is final. It occurs in one place and at one moment in time.

At Vimy, the gaping holes in the earth from the Allies’ rolling artillery barrage offered a hint at where exactly those German, Canadian, British, American, or French soldiers had perished, but never gave away the full story. At Dachau, you knew that wherever you put your foot down someone had been beaten, tortured, harassed, or executed, but could still never fill in all of the blanks. The dead aren’t advertised at these places. No “X marks the spot” where someone fell…only clues, only fragments; Swiss Cheese – full of holes.

Until Choeung Ek…until the Killing Fields.

The sign said “MASS GRAVE OF MORE THAN 100 VICTIMS CHILDREN AND WOMEN WHOSE MAJORITY WERE NAKED”. One of several mass graves marked with chillingly different signs detailing the states in which the bodies were discovered. “No heads” rang out particularly – but at least that was quick…quicker than the torture they had all suffered mere hours before at S-21. So here I stood, paralyzed at the edge of a grave where a mere 30 odd years ago, 100 women and children had been knelt down and bludgeoned to death – with farm implements. On that spot, that very spot, tens of people had been cut down for reasons even unknown to them. Then they fell, limp and without fear anymore, they rolled down the sides of this pit before me, the echo of the loudspeaker drowning out their final guttural sounds; gruesome work.

Then I knelt. I tried to see everything through the victim’s eyes, to witness that last worldly image they must have seen. I tried to imagine the fear, the anger, the pain, the injustice. Tried to make sense of what I was, ever so briefly, a part of. But I stood up empty. They were blindfolded when they were murdered.

No one can imagine that fear.

No one can put themselves into those shoes.

No one except the victims.

Death is personal. Choeung Ek is personal. The grounds are quiet and unassuming. The lush forests and local shop vendors give no hint of the horrors 30 years past. But the earth screams a story - a story that falls on the deaf ears of those who cannot, or choose not to, listen.

Right now, the story of Choeung Ek is being written elsewhere – I guarantee it. Somewhere, someone on this earth is not just feeling the fragments, the Swiss cheese. They are not just getting a glimpse into the past. They’re 32 years ahead of Pol Pot, 16 ahead of Bagosora, 15 ahead of Mladic, and kneeling down on the edge of hell praying for a miracle; someone to listen.

Never again…?

Falling.

Silence.

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Sunday, May 22, 2011

What do you MEAN these aren't volunteer visas?

Now that I’ve developed my fluffy preamble, it’s time to get down to the real stuff. So here is the plan. We fly into Bangkok and take a bus to Pursat. Seems easy right?

Try...

  • · Flying in an airplane for 19 hours (Air Canada: you can judge as you wish),
  • · Spending 10 hours in airports
  • · 12 hours in taxis
  • · 16 hours of fighting tuk tuk drivers
  • · An allergic reaction and a hospital visit,
  • · Countless hours bribing to get over the border,
  • · And throw in some hours into suit and tailor shops.

Yep, that sums up the last few days.


May 6 …

We arrived in Bangkok at 10pm and were struck by the thick polluted humidity and the bumping, bustling, beeping traffic on our journey to Khao San Road. Seeing as this had become my home on my last trip out here, I thought I’d show Jamie the Bangkok I grew to love. Sure enough, we were welcomed with music pulsating through the streets, tuk tuk drivers shouting, “ping pong shows”, and thousands of hippy backpackers wandering the streets, buying buckets of beer and pad thai from street vendors. The barrage of flashing lights and the waving currants of people passing by left us in slow motion – dazed.

We arrived at the D&D Inn, showered, and flopped onto our pillows – sleeping over the mumbling sounds of pounding music from the raving party below.


May 7 …

We woke up eager, ready to start our adventure. In the first few minutes of strutting down Khao San Road, we met a peculiar man – Tuk was his name; tuk tuk was his game. Clever eh?

He starts with “you from Canada?” He proudly shows a waving maple leaf pin on his shirt breast pocket.

I gesture to the same pin on my camera bag.

He continues: “Oooo! I love Canada!”

We smile. Why wouldn’t we?

Somehow, in two minutes, he had convinced us to get into his tuk tuk for 10 baht each (about 33 cents). We didn’t know yet, but we had committed to a full morning with Mr. Tuk. He had us joining him on his errands, including a stop at the shop to get a tune up on his tuk tuk followed by 10 tailor suit shops so he could get gas coupons.

The afternoon we spent lazing around the pool on the rooftop of the D&D Inn. My pale, un-freckled skin (lathered in SPF 12000) was no match for the leathery, bronzed travelers, covered in oil, soaking up more sun.

May 8 …

I did not sleep tonight because I had an allergic reaction. Yep, the ginger is allergic to sulfur. Unfortunately for me, it was an element found in one of my antibiotics. Rashes, fever, soar throat and swelling – you name it.

(… Don’t worry loved ones I’m alive and well. Obviously J.)

Luckily for me, the hospital was close by and we whizzed right over in the morning. When we arrived, I was hurried passed the drowsy locals drooping over uncomfortable waiting room chairs, right into a hospital bed. This was upsetting to me, just because many of the people in line had probably been waiting for hours. Here I am, a foreigner, able to pay and getting first class service.

When I went to pull up my shorts to show the male nurse my rash that had crept up my legs, he quickly stops me and says frantically, “Ok, ok, ok, I see!” Blushing, he fumbles with my chart and carries on with his duties. Jamie and I laughed, realizing that showing your upper thigh was clearly private in this culture. When he returned to take my blood pressure, I offered to take my sweater off. I only had a tank top underneath. Once again, there is an anxious look in his eye. “No, no, no…” He takes my blood pressure and gave me a vaccine – all with a hospital blanket and sweater on.

We were in and out in 2 hours – just in time for our complimentary breakfast back at the hotel!

May 9 …

We were a day late traveling to Pursat because of my allergic reaction but today we finally ventured off to the land we would soon call home.

After a 4-hour bus ride, we arrived at the border where Cambodian “border representatives” greeted us. (The quotations are placed there for a reason, but I’ll get to that.) We were warned of many of the normal border problems: children pick pocketing, hagglers out for your money, and bags being stolen.

We showed them our volunteer visas and they told us they weren’t valid.

“What do you MEAN these aren’t proper visas? We got these set up for us weeks ago.”

Our excitement and anticipation turned into anger and frustration. All the emails back and forth and arranging of dates with Sustainable Cambodia for the past 6 months to get this visa arranged are now useless?

They proceed to tell us we must pay them a border fee of $30 US each. Jamie’s tone shifts into what we like to call his “big boy voice”. He looks at this “representative” and tells him, “We are not paying. That’s ridiculous. We have been told these visas will work.”

The border rep just grabs our papers clumsily and says he will try and help us at the border. Nothing more was mentioned about paying a fee or the visa being invalid.

(Yeah, that’s right, I’m traveling with this guy… He sure comes in handy.)

Everything was good to go until we realize Jamie forgot his passport photos. The border rep tells us to slip in $5 US and they’ll still do it. So we did and worked like magic. Our visas were approved and we were ready to head to Pursat.

One problem. We had just missed the 2 O’clock bus and the next one didn’t leave until 8pm – we wouldn’t arrive in Pursat until very late at night. We tipped the border rep 10 dollars and he looked upset. He hadn’t obviously gotten the tip he wanted. So we gave him another 10 and sure enough, we are in a taxi shared with other locals off to Pursat within 5 minutes. The taxi costed an extra 700 baht each (about $23 CDN) but we were so exhausted we didn’t care.

We arrived in Pursat and were greeted by Ritana and Sakhun who took us by motorbike to the Sustainable Cambodia Office. We were greeted by smiles and handshakes from staff and swarms of laughing school kids.

After a long, active, and exhausting four days, this was the first time I had felt peace. This place has already become my home.

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Sunday, May 15, 2011

Either my math sucks, or that sounds like a long time.

May 5, 2011

It’s a weird feeling once that anticipated day finally comes. After relentless count down calendars, lists of last minute shopping errands, and the latest gear from Mount Equipment Coop; the day has finally come. How do you even begin to plan for a trip that will change your life? Okay, maybe I’m sounding a little dramatic. But it’s four months of my life. That’s one fourth of a year, 121 days, 2904 hours, 174,240 minutes, and 10,454,400 seconds. Either my math sucks, or that sounds like a long time. That sounds like a wonderful time.

May 5 is the day that Jamie and I fly off to an unknown, foreign land called Cambodia in a small village called Pursat. Why do we want to travel here you ask? Mainly because we are both equally crazy enough to spend our savings, scholarships, and bursary money on a trip that will make us twice as poor when we get back. That being said, we will be 10 times more fulfilled. We know that this is something we are both passionate about; something that can help prepare us for international careers we both love and crave. We decided to volunteer with a rotary funded; grassroots organization called Sustainable Cambodia that work with the local people in improving their overall quality of life.

Jamie plans to work in microfinance and I will work in Communications, possibly developing special interest stories, improving the website, yada yada. Main point is, we are getting our feet wet in the international scene and perhaps, if we’re so lucky, help in improving the lives of others. Oh yeah.

Yes, Jamie and I will probably drive each other bonkers. Heck, all his preplanning and repacking are already driving me nuts. But this will be an incredible experience that will (most probably) change us forever.

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